Koh Samui: A Family Escape Full of Food
Where to stay, what to eat and where to go.
At the start of 2024, after a pretty rocky Christmas, we made a decision- a whirlwind few years of moving house (more times than I’d care to count) and juggling life with two young boys, we needed something to look forward to. Something restorative. Something sunny. That’s when Thailand made its way onto the list.
A country both myself and Sofie have traveled to, we knew it would be brilliant for our two boys. We weren’t sure how it would pan out- two weeks in a tropical paradise with kids in tow sounded dreamy but also slightly daunting. Would they last through market mornings? Could we manage temple visits without meltdowns? Would we actually get to relax?
Koh Samui was everything we needed. A villa in the mountains to retreat to, beaches perfect for paddling, incredible food, and even moments of unexpected calm (thanks to some clever planning and a little local babysitting).
For any traveler, it’s a total escape. Here’s how we did it, what worked, where we ate, and why we’ll remember this trip forever. Also please find the link to all the places I saved on a google map here- handy to checkout on your travels.
Arriving in Koh Samui
Unlike many Thai islands, Koh Samui has its own airport, making it easily accessible with direct flights from Bangkok. The short, scenic flight lands you at one of the most charming airports you’ll ever see- open-air terminals, bean bags, fish ponds and tropical gardens.
Getting Around: Why Renting a Car Changed Everything
Thailand’s traffic isn’t exactly renowned for its calmness but to really explore the island with kids it’s pretty much a necessity. We booked through Fanta Car Rentals, who were responsive via WhatsApp and even sent us photos to help find them at the airport. At roughly €50 a day, it gave us the freedom to explore, and after a tentative start, we got used to the steady pace of traffic.
The car meant we could beach-hop, arrive at local markets nice and early, and set our own schedule, which is invaluable when you’ve got kids in tow. Pro tip: if you’re staying somewhere hilly (like we were, and there are quite a few up hill options), make sure your car rental has enough power for those steep inclines!
Seaview Villa at Pacific Pallisade
Coming from our little cottage in Ireland in the depths of January, this villa in Koh Samui felt like stepping into another world. It’s a friend’s place, newly on the market, and we were lucky enough to stay there. A peaceful retreat tucked into the hills, with an infinity pool that overlooks the sea and Koh Phangan.
The first morning, we opened the doors to that breathtaking view and just stood there, coffee in hand, feeling like we’d stumbled into paradise. The villa is beautifully designed, mid-century vibes with plenty of indoor and outdoor spaces to spread out, a fully kitted kitchen for lazy breakfasts, and 3 bedrooms which comfortably sleep six.
I’ll be honest- the drive up to the villa is no joke. The hill is steep, and the first time I tackled it, I was gripping the wheel with sweaty palms- I mainly blame the jetlag! But by the end of the week, I was taking it rally driver style, swerving around the odd chicken wandering the road and feeling like we’d fully embraced island life.
The steep climb is all part of the experience, and once you get to the top, the view makes it completely worth it. Standing there, looking out at the sea you feel like you’ve earned every second of the bliss that follows.
If you’re looking for somewhere to escape to, where you can properly unwind and soak up the sun, this place is magic. It’s new to the market and my mum and dad have just booked their slot in the Spring!
Beach Days and Market Mornings
Most of our days on Koh Samui looked like this- quick light breakfast in the house to keep the boys going, then a drive down the road to the local market (Mae Nam) for a proper roadside meal sat on a plastic stool of rice porridge, salapao (Thai style bao buns), donuts with fresh soy milk, with rocket fuel coffee or a super sweet iced Thai milk tea (all roughly between €1-5!) .
We spent most of the rest of the days beach hopping or chasing down food tips. Most beaches have a little restaurant, massage place and beautiful views, like Thongson Beach, Choengmon Beach, Maenam Beach, where the waves were just big enough for the boys to have some fun while still being shallow enough for them to paddle. A beachside massage for €10 for an hour and a plate of something spicy from the local restaurant were the icing on the cake.
Eating Our Way Through Koh Samui
The beauty of the island is how effortlessly it caters to every appetite, whether you’re sitting on a plastic stool at a market or dining under the stars at a luxury resort- there’s something that will suit just about anyone.
Khao Gaeng Shops: Thai Food at Its Core
These unassuming spots are the backbone of local cuisine. Behind the glass cabinets and stainless steel counters, you’ll find trays of curries, stir-fries, and soups, ready to be ladled over rice or noodles- in the back kitchen they seem to be able to turn out just about anything on their extensive menus. It’s a no-frills, full-flavor experience that feels like eating the way locals do. Food is cheap here and we often picked up dishes to go.
Market Stalls: Street Food
On Koh Samui, some of the best food comes from small roadside carts or market stalls. Grilled meats, skewered seafood, sticky rice, and coconut pancakes are prepared with precision honed over generations.
Night Markets: Flavor and Atmosphere
Night markets, like Nathon, are more than just places to eat- they’re a full sensory experience. Fried pork with sticky rice, spicy papaya salads, and crispy chicken are served alongside the hum of vendors and the occasional sizzle of a wok. It’s food meant to be savoured right there, with the chaos and beauty of the market around you. The boys loved eating sitting on the street and watching the world go by.
Beachside Restaurants: Sand Between Your Toes
Beachfront dining on Koh Samui is every where- you’ll see more tourists in these options but the food is still top notch. A spicy curry or a whole grilled fish feels just right when paired with a cold coconut and the sea breeze. Add the glow of a fire show or the rhythm of the waves, and the meal becomes something you’ll remember long after it’s over.
Higher-End Hotel Dining: Elevated Island Flavors
Koh Samui also knows how to do luxury. Restaurants like Long Dtai at Cape Fahn and Za’atar at the Four Seasons are all about the experience. You’ll pay European prices but the food is fantastic and certainly worth treating yourself to at least once on a trip like this.
The Food List!
I have my full list of places I saved on our travels on my google list but here are some of the standouts from where we ate:
Bang Por Seafood
Nestled along the serene Bang Por Beach, Bang Por Seafood offers an authentic Thai dining experience with the freshest catch of the day. The laid-back atmosphere and beachfront views made it a delightful spot for our family dinners.
Maenam Morning Market
Arriving before 9:30 AM allowed us to experience the market at its peak, mingling with locals and savoring breakfast staples like jok (rice porridge) and freshly made noodles. The vibrant atmosphere provided a genuine taste of local life.
CoCo Tam's
A total tourist destination but a bit of fun- come for the fire show and not the food- though the pizza wasn’t half bad! The fire show, starting around 7:30 PM, was a highlight for both the kids and us. Sitting on bean bags with pizzas and drinks, the boys LOVED the entertainment and even treated us to a nightly fire show long after we went!
Khao Hom
Conveniently located near the airport, Khao Hom became one of our favorite spots for Thai cuisine. Their green curry was exceptional, and other standout dishes included aromatic stir-fries and fresh seafood. We enjoyed it so much that we went there twice, making it our final meal on the island.
Long Dtai at Cape Fahn Hotel
Celebrated chef David Thompson's Long Dtai provided a memorable dining experience. The journey to the restaurant, involving a boat ride or a high-wheeled truck depending on the tides, was an adventure in itself. The boys were fascinated, and the southern Thai cuisine was exquisite.
The Cocoon Samui Viewpoint
Though touristy, The Cocoon Samui Viewpoint offered one of the best panoramic views of the island. The large net suspended high over the forest was a hit for photos, and the Western-style breakfast was great. We heard they host live jazz on some nights, making it a spot we'd love to revisit.
Khrua Chao Ban
Known for its excellent seafood, Sabienglae Lamai served a memorable Thai herb salad and whole Samui style grilled fish slathered in an aromatic paste. The restaurant's swings on the beach and bean bags under umbrellas on the rocks added a fun and relaxing touch to our dining experience and we could watch the boys snorkeling while we finished lunch.
Nathon Night Food Market
This market became our regular evening haunt. Predominantly frequented by locals, it provided an authentic Thai experience. The kids enjoyed playing on bouncy castles and painting outdoors under the moonlight. We savored street food delights like fried pork with sticky rice, little coconut pancakes, crispy chicken, and spiced rice. The vibrant atmosphere and street-side dining encapsulated the local vibe.
Tiao Khrae
One of our favourite "khao gaeng" (ข้าวแกง) style restaurants. The owner was so lovely and the food was so good that we even took extra back to our villa for dinner. So many dishes to choose from but a favourite was the Southern Thai Spicy Rice salad.
Sawasdee Cup Samui
With an extensive menu, we enjoyed dishes like pork salad and larb gai. The classic local Thai food, combined with lovely service, made it one of the best spots to witness a western-side sunset. Mainly tourists here but the food was top-notch.
Four Seasons' 'Za'atar' Restaurant
Despite its Middle Eastern name, the restaurant offered a diverse menu. We particularly enjoyed the beef salad, chicken skewers, and curries. The ambiance and quality of food made it a memorable dining experience. The resort recently featured in the new season of White Lotus and is every bit as glamorous as you might imagine.
4 Monkeys
Our local spot near the villa, 4 Monkeys served as a super place for ice cream, drinks, and coffee. It was the perfect place to unwind after a day of exploration.
Temples, Treats, and Tiny Luxuries
One of the highlights of our trip was visiting Koh Samui’s temples. I’ll admit, we were nervous about bringing the boys who normally moan their way through museums. But they loved ringing the peace bells and watching a monk give blessings. It turned out to be a surprisingly calming experience, and we left feeling a little lighter.
Koh Samui has a little bit of everything, a little microcosm of all that is wonderful about Thailand: beautiful beaches, vibrant markets, delicious food, and enough adventure to keep kids entertained. Renting a car gave us the freedom to explore, and our villa provided the perfect balance of comfort and escape.
If you’re dreaming of a tropical family holiday that blends adventure with relaxation, Koh Samui might just be the place for you. The flight may feel daunting but paradise awaits on the other side!
Donal x
If the cooking and recipe-book-writing doesn't work out, Donal, (wink) you can move into travel writing! A fabulous article with fantastic photographs. A delight!
Fabulous article. If you stayed in Bangkok can you do the same for there.